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MINUTES - 06231998 - C127
Tu: BOARD OF SUPERVISORS f ontra FROM: CastFROM: �. PHIL BATCHELOR, COUNTY ADMINISTRATOR a$ ��� : ,•c County DATE: ,lune 17, 1998 SUBJECT. APPROVAL TO SUBMIT" CSAC CHALLENGE ,AWARD APPLICATIONS SPECIFIC REQUEST{S}OR RECO MMENOATKJN(S)&BACKGROUND AND JUSTIFICA'1 ION RECOMMEN IONS: 1. APPROVE the two attached applications for CSAC Challenge Awards, one from the Social Service Department for the Antioch Receiving Center and the other from Cooperative Extension for the Less Toxic Home and Carden Program. 2. AUTHORIZE the Chair, Board of Supervisors to execute a letter of endorsement to CSAC authorizing the submission of the applications. 3. AUTHORIZE the County Administrator to submit the applications to CSAC, including the $25.09 per application submission fee. BACKGROUND: Each year the California State Association of Counties solicits applications for its Challenge Award Program, This County generally submits at least one application and has been rewarded over the years with a number of awards for innovative programs. This year the Social Service Department has submitted an application for the Antioch Receiving Center and Cooperative Extension has submitted an application for its cooperative program with the Central ContraCosta Sanitary District, the Less Toxic Home and Garden Program. The Challenge Awards need to be submitted to CSAC by ,tune 2+6, 1998 with an Executive Summary of the program, a $25.09 fee for each application, and a letter of endorsement from the Board of Supervisors. CONTINUED ON ATTACHMENT: YES SIGNATURE: y^RECOMMENDATION OF COUNTY ADMINISTRATOR RECOMMENDATION OF BOARD COMMITTEE X APPROVE OTHER SIGNATURE ACTION O€BOARD ON un s 1 vtm APPROVED AS RECOMMENDED �' OTHER VOTE OF SUPERVISORS I HEREBY CERTIFY THAT THIS IS A TRUE X UNANIMOUS{ABSENT } AND CORRECT COPY OF AN ACTION TAKEN AYES: NOES: AND ENTERED ON THE MINUTES OF THE BOARD ABSENT: ABSTAIN: OF SUPER;1L R THE DATE SHOWN. CC: ATTESTED CSAC (Via CAO) Social Service Director BATCHELOR,CLERK OF THE.BOARD OF SUPERVISORS AND COUNTY ADMINISTRATOR Director, Cooperative Extension , I0,382 (101$8) BY ._ r L t ;.Ii L^^ DEPUTY ntl* och i • eceiving center an innovative assessment center for abused children t i � 2P T � e1{ J�, IBRfII�• .� ♦. d Pt t 1998 CSAC Challenge Awards Submitted by Contra Costa County Social Service Department John B. Cullen, Director (925) 313--1579 Danna Fabella, Assistant Director (925) 313-1583 40 Douglas Drive, Martinez, Ca 94553 Fax (925) 313-1575 C.127 b-23-98 The Challenge "Mommy and Daddy are always yelling at one another. Tonight, they started hitting each other and my younger brother... so I ran to my bedroom,closed the door,and put my head under my pillow. I didn't want to hear fighting! I'm so scared." Sadly, this scenario(and other acts of child abuse and domestic violence) is too often played out in homes in our communities. Counties have responsibility for providing primary emergency response to these situations. However, when social workers are called to provide protective services, they often find unsatisfactory environments in which to interview and assess the child victim(s). It is not uncommon for social workers to interview these children in crisis at the hostile scene itself, in the back of a police car, at the county welfare office or some other frightening location Needless to say, trying to assist a child in these environments makes a difficult situation even scarier and more traumatic. The Solution Contra Costa County Social Service Department developed a partnership'with a private organization,Aspira Foster and Family Services, to open and operate the Antioch Receiving Center in the eastern portion of our county, The Antioch Receiving Center is the first of its kind in California. It is a safe, child-friendly environment where county staff can do thorough assessments and address the critical issues facing children taken into protective custody. Unlike an emergency shelter institution, the Antioch Receiving Center provides care in the first 24 hours in order to better proceed with casework and placement services. The Center is in a remodeled former insurance company office, which has been redesigned to accommodate the needs of children, ages newborn to 17. Age-appropriate materials,furniture, and resources are available for use 24 hours per day,7 days a week. A variety of murals and story characters are painted on the walls; the ceiling reflects the sun, moon and stars. Additional creative touches remove any sense of an institutional facility, which can be oppressive or frightening; instead,this environment con- veys a sense of caring and safety to children. The Center provides a place where staff can take the necessary time to assess the particular situation,provide crisis intervention, support and counseling, initiate psychological and medical assessments, locate and screen appropriate placement alternatives and begin family services. The Center also provides more tangible services for the child. If he or she needs a bath,facilities are available. For hungry children, the kitchen has a variety of food. If clothes are dirty,or the child arrives in pajamas,clean and appropriate clothing is at hand. Cribs and a private bedroom are right on site. The Cerner also has toys, games, art materials, television and videos to help the children relax. ............ __ ___ _ _ ....._.....__.. Use of this resource has enabled completion of thorough assessments which have led to better decisions on services and placements that address child-specific needs. The success of this Center in east county during 1997 has influenced the opening of a Center in west county in July of 1998, to be followed by a central county resource in 1999. The Cost The Antioch Receiving Center budget for staffing and facility operations is $185,000 per year. Funding can be claimed to federal, state and local child welfare programs. Contra Costa County's partnership with the private sector has enabled the sharing of facility operating costs. The Results The Receiving Center concept is an effective alternative to interviewing children in crisis at the scene of a traumatic incident or in a police car. Providing a safe,child-friendly environment enables a thorough evaluation of need and a contemplative arrangement of health, social service, and placement resources. Specific results for the children served to date include: • A more detailed listing of children's needs; • Better matching of specific needs with an appropriate relative or foster care provider, resulting in a more stable placement; • Less disruption to daily routine; • Faster initiation of services to both child and family; • More humane transition from home to out-of-home care. Financial savings result from more appropriate placement decisions, early identification and provision of health care,and timely initiation of services. Examples include cases in which: • A child was placed with a relative versus foster care; • A child was placed in a foster family home with wrap around services versus a crisis institutional shelter; • Costs of shelter care were reduced for some Receiving Center children; • A serious medical problem was discovered in a child and care initiated. One"savings"that cannot be quantified in dollars is the reduction of emotional trauma to each child brought to the Center. We believe the Antioch Receiving Center is an excellent resource that can be replicated to support stability, emotional support and services for children in need of protection. C.127 6-23-98 FO►R, MORE INFORMATION: John B. Cullen, Director(925) 313-1579 Manna Fabella,Assistant Director(925) 313-1583 Contra Costa County Social Service Department 40 Douglas Drive Martinez,California 94553 Fax(925) 313-1575 f i •L. .- r a. ry. , Al yf{ ! !Y I x d dd}} •yy i '•',-Bi �i f51 ., wda ��,d' Y a�.,�I�y �i i� i��., E:', 3. -�`"Wac_„.. fir. i t s . NN, � � • � - s- F �," fid.. ,C F , �l '//�� F"j ,'�' L M` ,, r •. f sf` p� �. .� n � {�� 1, a•= fir '1� R� 'fie - p ?.r 4 �-,�1 -""'� � M fittdd .-- • ;, ,... �� N • e�:. ...., �� �:'� °.�9���f � � � ; ,;�� ������ ��k' ` i5 ��""'^` { � �"`��•+'' ems': •� , ;:' R^ « R e ��� ..t° �, �` �.� � ~ 1F�, ��+�y6 �i '. iif®y. � .. � � 0 �"w' �;xV "` .. `� � T � 'y ,.. k a:i, t `� �.nw "� 6 � 1 _ ; �R� ` 6 F��..} `�c� .0 t:•`' ,y ��+'��\'� a its �F*riy�1 � { �i,1 r5� gy�pp,.. • t atek�..a- _ �( r*� �� (y .�,„ e`fe,,,n�n„�i,a aa;• war� y "!'r t � � r6dA(a AK 111i )� �f�.�b" � f i� t .�� 'i, `, G •�- ; �i.,44�t Y{Y' ^.v 2�{ f ;tib } 4 � t w � T. '\. SR' E��1• lk x # y � . # Central Centra Costa Sanitary District Bay Area water qua?fty Prcteetten Agencies C.127 b-23-98 Gardening, Pesticides, and Water Quality ATTENTION ALL GARDENERS! You can maintain a healthy garden and protect our sensitive water environment by following the less toxic, common-sense techniques outlined in this booklet. You see,pesticides are potentially harmful to your family,pets,and garden ecosystem,and these chemicals i have been found to contribute to toxicity in our water environment. Central Contra Costa Sanitary District (Central San) is asking for your help in reducing the risks of water pollution associated with pesticide use in our community.For five decades,Central San has maintained an award-winning record of collecting and cleaning up the dirty water from bathrooms,kitchens,laundry rooms,and garages in cen. tral Contra Costa County. However, increasingly stringent standards for water quality in the San Ran- cisco Bay and Delta,along with advances in water quality testing,have recently highlighted the emerging issue of toxicity from pesticides in Central San's treated wastewater.Tiny water fleas,similar to those at the base of the food web in the Bay/Delta ecosystem, have been found to be very sensitive to minute amounts of some pesticides that remain in the Central San's treated wastewater that gets discharged into Suisun Bay. It takes just one drop of a common pesticide in the volume of two backyard swimming pools to kill this sensitive water flea. It"s not surprising that residential areas of our community have been identified as major contributors of pesticide pollution in both local creeks and wastewater According to the California Department of Nsti- cide Regulations records,California homeowners purchased about one million pounds of diazinon for use around their homes in 1990. Here are some of the things you can do to main- tain a healthy garden, protect your family and pets, and prevent water pollution: CONTENTS • Adopt the less-toxic pest management and Planning for a Healthier, Less-Toxic Hume and gardening practices described in the fallow. Garden Using Integrated Pest Management 3 ing pages. Less-Toxic Lawn Care 6 • Learn more about less-toxic gardening at a Physical and Cultural Controls for Pests 9 free Garden Health Clinic,held at a partici- pating hardware store or garden center Call Buying and Using Beneficial Organisms for (510) 228.9500 for times and locations. Garden Pest Control 11 • Or, call the Bio-Integral Resource Center Soaps and Oils for Pest Control 13 ! (510) 524-2567,or the University of Califor- Less-Toxic Pest Management for Ants 15 nia Cooperative Extension (UCCE) Master Gardeners, (510) 646.6544. Less-Toxic Pest Management for Aphids 18 • If you must use chemical pesticides,remem- Less-'toxic Pest Management for Pleas 21 ber to read the label three times: before you Spiders,the Helpful Hunters 24 purchase them, when you use them, and Less-Toxic Pest Management for White Grubs 26 when you clean up or dispose of them. Fol- low aU label directions. Be careful not to Products and Resources Referred to overwater after applying chemicals. in this Booklet 28 The Less Toxic Home and Garden • If you buy pesticides,minimize opportunities for spills and contamination by buying`ready-to-use'chemi- cals rather than concentrates. • Never dispose of pesticides in a sink, storm drain, or in the trash. Take unwanted pesticides to the Household Hazardous Waste Collection Facility in Martinez,across from Central Saris treatment plant. Call 1-800-646-1431 for more facility information. FOR +RE INFORMATIO If you have questions about the information in this booklet or need additional information,contact: Bio-Integral Resource Center at (510) 524-2567,or the UCCE Master Gardeners at (510) 646-6540 No endorsement of specific brand name products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Follow all label directions on any suggested product. This booklet,which is part of the Less-Toxic Pest Management series,has been developed and produced by Central Contra Costa Sanitary District. Ibst control strategies and methods described in these publi- cations are consistent with integrated pest management(IPM) concepts,and are based on scientific stud- ies and tests in actual home and garden settings. Central San is grateful to the UCCE Master Gardeners, and to the garden centers and hardware stores that are joining us in our efforts to improve our water environment. Funding was provided by grants from the California Department of Pesticide Regulation and the National Foundation for Integrated Pest Man- agement. Writing: Bio-Integral Resource Center Berkeley,CA Baefsky&Associates Orinda,CA Design: Lauren Wohl Design Oakland,CA Janet Cox&Associates Palo Alto,CA Project coordination&printing: Central Contra Costa Sanitary District Martinez,CA .2 . _. . .... _... ............... _.. .._.. ... . ........ .._..... ........ ....... ........ ........ ...... .......... ._. __....... } Planning for a Healthier, Less-Toxic Home and Garden Using Integrated Pest ManagemJ 27 b-23-98 Planning for a Healthier, LtessmTox c Home and Garden Using Integrated Pest Management 1 Today's gardeners,homeowners,and pet-lovers are looking for ways to manage pest problems with little or no use of toxic materials.Many are relying on a process called Integrated Pest';Management or IPM. IPM allows us to look at and deal with pest problems in a new way that can ultimately lead to longer lasting suppression of pests while using fewer harmful chemicals.This is accomplished without sacrificing comfort in the home or beauty and productivity in the garden. A major part of an IPM program is determining the number of pests that can be tolerated without causing unacceptable damage or annoyance.Pests are treated only when they reach that level.Then,many differ- ent treatment methods are mixed and matched (integrated) to produce the best results. First and foremost, IPM is a decision-making process that helps people determine whethe; when, and how to treat a pest problem. Whether or Not to Treat The mere presence of a pest insect or weedy plant does not necessarily indicate a problem. Try asking yourself these questions: • Is real damage taking place?The problem of cosmetic blemishes on fruit caused by certain plant diseases is very different from damage done by termites chewing on rafters. • How many pests are present and will that number cause serious damage?Many shade trees can sup- port huge numbers of aphids without much damage other than a few yellowing leaves that drop prematurely. On the other hand,one flea on a highly allergic dog will cause great suffering • In the garden, ask yourself if any natural enemies of the pest aw present.',There are many kinds of beneficial insects, spiders, and other organisms that feed on pests and thus provide free pest control. Learn to recognize common predators such as ladybugs, syrphid flies, and lacewings. If you see them in abundance, you may want to postpone any treatments to see if these natural enemies will solve problems for you. • How many pests can you tolerate?People differ in the number of pests they are willing to tolerate, and this tolerance level varies depending on the factors discussed above.IPM encourages people to think about their tolerance levels and experiment with tolerating a greater number of pests, especially in situations where damage is not serious. When to Treat Proper timing of treatments is very important for good pest management. Regular monthly or bi- monthly spraying wastes pesticides and unnecessarily exposes humans,pets,and the environment .3 . 115 ... _ ....._._. .. _..._.. _...... . _..._. _ _ _ _.. __ ......... ....... �lad Less-Toxic Lawn Care Less-Toxic Lawn Care Lawns can look beautiful without using large amounts of pesticides and fertilizers that may contribute to water quality problems in your local creek or in the Bay.The tips below will help you maintain a healthy lawn that can out-compete weeds and other lawn pests. Start out Right • Choose the right varieties of grass for your climate and conditions in your yard. • Choose pest-and disease-resistant varieties. • Choose a mix of grass species (see Some Preferred Grasses for the Bay Area). Pests and diseases can be quite selective. A mix of grasses will prevent complete destruction of your lawn if an outbreak occurs. • Have your soil tested by a soils laboratory so you know your soil's texture, pH, and salt and nutrient levels. • Choose sod that has been propagated in soil similar to your own. Build a Healthy Soil before Installing a New Lawn • After your soil is professionally tested, amend it according to the laboratory recommendations. • Thoroughly mix soil layers of different textures before planting. Poor soil preparation can cause poor drainage which results in weak turf • Rototillers can create a hard layer of soil just below the depth of the tilling If these hard pans exist, they must be broken up by using a larger rototiller or a small (Bobcat) garden tractor Irrigate an Established Lawn Properly • Put enough water on the lawn to wet the soil 3 to 4 inches down.Grass roots will grow deeper into the soil and the lawn will be healthier • Water an area for one hour and check to see how far the water has penetrated.Test with a soil probe (a hollow tube that you push into the soil—part of the tube is cut away so you can observe the core of soil that you bring to the surface) or push a shovel into the soil and tilt it forward to observe the soil behind the spade. • Irrigate slowly so that water doesn't run off. • If water is running off or pooling even with slow irrigation, soil compaction may be a problem. (See Lawn Aeration section). • Clay soils hold more moisture and dry out more slowly, thus they may need less frequent irrigation. • Sandy soils dry out more quickly and may need more frequent irrigation. • Before you irrigate,check the soil. It should be drying out before you add more water . 6. The Less Toxic Home and Garden C.127 1 6-23-98 Leave Crass Clippings on the Lawn * Grass clippings' can provide most of the mineral elements needed to maintain a lawn but only if P � Y ! the clippings decompose. Clippings must be small enough so they decompose quickly and dont form mats on top of the living grass {remove only 1/3 of the blade at any one time.(See"Mow the Right Way"section). Soil must contain bacteria,fungi,insects,worms,and oxygen in order to decompose clippings.A lawn that has been heavily fertilized or frequently treated with pesticides may be deficient in these elements. 1 Mover the Right Way * During the summer months,cut grass higher or experiment with not mowing at all and allowing the lawn to grow to its natural height. Remember to snow so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade is removed at one cutting Remov- ing more can be very stressful for the plant. * Keep mower blades sharp. Dull blades rip rather than slice causing considerable stress for the lawn and leaving wounds on the grass blades that are exposed to pests and diseases. * Mow when the grass is dry. Alternate your mowing pattern frequently to avoid compacted ruts. * If rust disease is present in your lawn, clean your mower between mowings. Deal Sensibly with Weeds * Decide how many weeds you can tolerate. It is not realistic to expect a completely weed-free lawn.Some weeds can be beneficial;for example,clover can fix nitrogen that will provide plant nutrients.Many other plants growing in a lawn are considered weeds only at certain times or by certain people.Early in the 213th century,dandelions growing in lawns were prized for their cheer- ful yellow color.Today,many gardeners think that English daisies can,add charm to a lawn. * Dig weeds up by hand and sprinkle grass seed on any bare spots so weeds cant fill in.Press down the seeds so they make contact with the soil,cover them with a scant 1/4"of light soil,and water with a fine spray until the grass sprouts. * Keep grass growing vigorously to crowd out weeds. Don't mow grass too short; taller blades can shade the soil enough to prevent some weed seeds from germinating I * Use corn gluten meal to prevent certain broadleaf weeds from germinating Apply in spring or fall a few weeks before annual weeds begin to germinate. Lawn Aeration • Aerate lawns when and where they need it.Test with a soil probe: if you cannot push the probe 5 to 6 inches into the soil, consider aerating Spots where water pools, areas that look thin, and areas of heavy traffic may also need aeration. * Use a hallow-tined aerator that removes cores of soil.There are bothfoot-operated and motor- ized models. . y. _...._ Less-Toxic Lawn Care • Before aerating irrigate deeply (soil should be moist 5At } to b inches down) so you can push the aerator into the5, t�� soil as far as possible. Allow the soil to dry slightly after irrigating before you begin aeration. • Leave the plugs on the lawn and break them up with a garden rake. T �,;. ©ethatching for Bluegrass, Rye, or Fescue Lawns • Thatch is the dead and dying matted grass parts lying on the soil.Thatch prevents ai4 water,and fertilizer from reaching the soil. Eventually grass may start growing in the thatch instead of in the soil. • Remove thatch if it is more than 1/2 inch thick. • Remove with a rake,or improve the biological activity in the soil so that thatch will decompose more quickly Aeration can help (See Lawn Aeration.section). • As long as the soil is biologically active, grass clippings $a left on the lawn will not contribute to thatch buildup. a� Fertilization • Have your soil tested so you know what nutrients are in short supply. Unless the soil texture is sandy, nutrient ' deficiencies are unlikely. HP • Remember that grass clippings left on the lawn can pro- vide most of the fertilizer N • 1f you need to fertilize, use natural fertilizers or slow- release fertilizers such as Osmacote.These products re- i lease nutrients slowly over a longer period which allows the grass to absorb nutrients more efficiently. ' • Fertilizers, if misapplied or used in the wrong season, # can kill soil life and ruin the soil structure in even the best soils. Know the grass species in your lawn so you � � will know when it is appropriate to fertilize. Nitrogen (N) is best applied during the growing season of your particular grass species(see Some Preferred Grasses for the Bay Area for information on growing seasons). Phosphorus (P) can be applied at any time. Potassium (K) should be applied during the growing season of each particular species. •8• i Physical and Cultural Controls for lE'esl117 i 6-23-98 i P ysi+�a1 and CulturalControls for Pests r • • • • r • • ♦ • • • • • • r • • • • • • • • • r ► • • • • • j Physically or mechanically preventing or removing pests (physical controls) and changing the way you garden (cultural controls) are methods that should be employed before using pesticides. i Physical Controls Squashing bugs with bare hands was probably the first form of pest control.Although this can still be a useful technique, there are also a few more sophisticated physical and mechanical methods. • Vacuuming.The vacuum is a pest control device disguised as a cleaning tool. Indoors,it can be used on pests such as fleas, ants, and cockroaches. Outdoors, it can be used to suck up adult whiteflies,squash bugs, and other unwanted plant feeders. • Caulking.Caulk has many uses around the house to prevent pests from entering our homes,but in the yard and garden,special cement crack filler can be used to eliminate spots where weeds are likely to grow. • Barriers. Sticky barriers (such as Tanglefooe, Tree Sticky Barrier`) around the trunks of trees and shrubs can prevent ants from reaching aphids, scales, and mealybugs and protecting them from their natural enemies. Special horticultural fabric (such as Tufbel) made into row covers can be placed over seedlings in the garden to keep pests out while still allowing water and sun- light to reach the plants.tither kinds of horticultural fabric can be laid on the ground to prevent weed growth. Paper bags placed over young apples and pears will exclude codling moths. • Manual Weeding.Pulling weeds by hand or with the aid of various weeding tools is still the least- disruptive eastdisruptive way to control weeds,especially when there are only a few • Flame Weeding.Heat can kill unwanted plants.With a hand-held flamer(a propane torch) you can heat plants until the sap in their cells expands enough to break the cell walls and cause death.The plants need not be burned for this to happen; holding the flamer over the plant just long enough for the plant to change color or wilt is sufficient. This technique works best on young,broad-leaf annual weeds. Cultural Controls Changing the way you garden can have a great impact on your pest problems. Vigorous plants growing under the right conditions are less likely to suffer from attack by pests. • Choose the Right Plant for the Right Spot.When you try to grow a shade-loving plant in full sunlight,you're going to have problems keeping the plant healthy or even alive.Before you buy a plant at the nursery, find out as much about it as you can.What type of soil does it like? Moist, dry, well-drained, alkaline, acid, etc.? How much sun and water does it need? Learn about the requirements of the plants already in your garden too. If a plant is growing in the wrong place, consider moving it or replacing it •9• ................. ................I........ ............ The Less Toxic Home and Garden • Choose Resistant Plants.Many plants are naturally resistant to pests or have been bred to be so. Talk to knowledgeable nursery personnel or do your own research in gardening books. Look for the words'resistant to..2. • Diversify your Garden. Variety in your garden will help prevent a situation where a pest can rapidly devastate a large group of identical plants. Maintaining nectar and pollen-rich plants in your garden attracts the adult stages of many beneficial insects that feed on pests.Flowers attract honeybees to pollinate fruit and butterflies to add beauty. A few of these plants are sweet alys- sum, cosmos, fleabane,and native buckwheats (Eriogonum spp.). • Use Mulch to Prevent Weeds. Many weedy plants are specifically adapted to grow best in bare or disturbed soil.Covering the soil with mulch eliminates their habitat. • Take Care of your Soil.A healthy soil,one which harbors abundant populations of earthworms, fungi, and bacteria, keeps your plants vigorous and resistant to attack by pests and diseases.You should be able to find 10 earthworms in a patch of soil 6 inches deep and 11/2 ft.square. If they aren't there, add organic matter (compost or mulch) to your soil. • Give Plants the Right Amount of Water.Both water-logged plants and drought-stressed plants will have a hard time growing and will suffer more if attacked by pests. Know the moisture re- quirements of the plants in your garden, as well as any new ones you buy and group together plants with similar moisture requirements. • Fertilize Properly. Determine your fertilizer needs by teaming about the signs of plant nutrient deficiencies and by having a soil analysis done by a soils laboratory Using slow-release fertilizers such as compost,decomposed manures,encapsulated materials (such as Osmacote),and many of the organic fertilizers on the market will also help prevent certain insect and disease problems that thrive on leaves and buds with high nitrogen levels. • Prune Correctly.Learn about how and when to prune the woody plants in your garden. Your Certified Arborist or nurseryperson can provide assistance. Since all pruning of live tissue in- volves wounding your plants, do it carefully and conservatively. Cut just outside the swollen collar of tissue where the branch meets the trunk or another branch. Dead wood can be removed in any season; live branches can be minimally pruned in any season. Do not paint tree wounds; this can be detrimental to healing. For pest management, minimal pruning is best because it will stimulate the least amount of new growth (which attracts many insect species). 10 11 _... _........_..._... _... ._.... ......... ._.._.. .. ......... .... ........._.. . . . _. ... ... .. ........ ........ .. ... _ ... ........ ........ ........ ......... .......... ......... Buying and Using Beneficial Organisms for Garden Pest ContI27 6-23-98 Buyingand Usin Beneficial Organisms for Garden Pest Control If the native beneficial organisms (beneficials) in your garden need some assistance, you may wish to purchase beneficials.Garden supply catalogs offer many species,and you can purchase them directly from private insectaries. Two Groups of Beneficials Beneficial organisms fall roughly into 2 categories. predators and parasitoids. Predators are usually generalists and feed on a number of different pests.Parasitoids are more specific and many can only develop in only one host species.There are many predatory and parasitic insects,but there are also predatory mites and beneficial nematodes (microscopic worm-like organisms). Know Your Pests It is important to have an accurate identification (preferably the Latin name) of the pest you are trying manage,so you can buy a beneficial that actually feeds on it.Books can help(see Products and Resources at the end of this booklet),or you can take specimens to the County Cooperative Extension Office, (look under `County Government Offices' in the phone book). Private consultants also provide identification services.See the Yellow Pages under`Horticultural Consultants'.Calling ahead to ask when to bring in your specimen and how to preserve it will save time. Beneficials and Pesticides Most beneficials are extremely sensitive to pesticides (often much more so than pests!), and you may have to wait for pesticides you have used recently to degrade before introducing beneficials into your garden. Where to Buy Beneficials Beware of fly-by-night producers with poor quality products. Buy organisms only from reputable insectaries or retailers that guarantee their products. Is the staff helpful',and do they seem knowl- edgeable? Complete and easy-to-read information on how to release the organism should be in- cluded with your purchase. This should cover facts about the life cycle of the creature, specific release rates,how often they should be released, and any special requirements of the organism. If you are buying beneficials from a nursery or hardware store,ask for the name and phone number of the beneficial producer. Ask the staff in the retail store if the beneficials have been lept in a refrigerator. Doet buy anything that has been stored on a shelf BeneficialOrganisms are Alive .......................................................................I..,................................................................................. .............. The Less Toxic Home and Garden Beneficial organisms are living creatures and must be handled with care if they are to remain alive. They will need food when they arrive in your garden,so don't order them unless you have pests for them to eat. Some Beneficials Work Best when Pest Populations are Low You will have the most success with some beneficial organisms (consult the insectary) if you release them at the first sign of a pest problem. This requires monitoring your garden, getting out and looking at leaves and plants to find pests before their numbers reach high levels. Create Habitats for Beneficial Insects Often it is the immature stage of a beneficial insect that provides the best pest control, while the adult feeds mainly on nectar and pollen. By adding nectar, and pollen-rich plants to your garden you can encourage the beneficials to stay and reproduce. Try plants with numerous small flowers such as yarrow (Achillea spp.), sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima), native buckwheat (Eriogonum spp.),California lilac (Ceanothus spp.), and coyote bush (Baccharis spp.). Flowers in the daisy fam- ily,such as asters and cosmos,and herb plants such as fennel,coriande;caraway,dill,and chervil(if allowed to flower) are also useful. (For more information, see the Products and Resources at the end of this booklet, and the Physical and Cultural Control section). Keep Ants Out Many pest insects, such as aphids, scales, and mealybugs, are tended by ants that will attack and fend off beneficial insects.Use sticky barriers (Tanglefooe,Tree Sticky Barriere) around the trunks of trees or shrubs to exclude ants. Prune branches away from buildings or other objects that might provide ants an alternative route into the plant. . 12 • ................................... Soaps and Oils for fest CcmtfoII27 6-23-98 Sown and tails for Peet Control Soaps Soaps (sodium or potassium salts combined with fish or vegetable oil) have been used to kill pests since the late 1700s and perhaps even earlier. Most of the research on the use of soaps came to an abrupt halt during World War It because of the increasing availability of pesticides such as D17'I: Today,pesticidal soaps are making a comeback. 3 Safety 1 Soaps are virtually non.-toxic to the user and they degrade rapidly in the soil. Soaps can cause eye irritation,so wear goggles and follow the safety precautions on the label. Effectiveness In order to kill a pest with soap, the material must come in contact with the pest's body.Soaps are effective on mites and soft bodied insects such as aphids,mealybugs,whiteflies,scale crawlers(the immature form of the scale insect), immature fleas, and immature psyllids. Caterpillars, beetles, wasps,flies,and grasshoppers are less affected by soaps. Slow-moving insects are more susceptible than highly mobile ones that can fly away from the spray. Thus, the adult forms of many beneficial insects,such as ladybugs, lacewings,and syrphid flies, are not very susceptible;the flightless,soft-bodied immature forms of these insects are more susceptible. Application Because soaps can harm beneficial insects,check your plants before you treat.If you find a number of beneficials feeding on the target pest,wait for several days.There may be enough beneficials to handle the pest problem by themselves. In a few days the beneficials may have eaten most of the pests and changed into their pupal stage at which point they will be less susceptible to the soap. Insecticidal soap can be particularly useful in early spring when aphids,ants,and other similar pests are multiplying,but beneficials have not yet arrived to feed. Spray early in the morning or late in the afternoon before bees are active since soaps (and oils) can incapacitate and kill bees. Complete coverage of the infested parts of the plant is crucial to the effectiveness of insecticidal soap since it kills insects on contact. In general, commercial products will not burn plants; howevex with very sensitive plants such as orchids,African violets, and ferns, testa small part of a leaf first. Using Other Soaps or Detergents A 1%to 2%solution of regular household soap or detergent can also be used to kill insects,but its reliability is less predictable than commercial products.Such solutions are more litely to bum plants, • 13 • The Less Toxic Home and Garden Today, standardization has improved insecticidal soaps so that their formulations maximize the particular molecules that have been shown to be most tcodc. to insects. Herbicidal and fungicidal soaps are also on the market. Other Formulations Some formulations of insecticidal soaps contain other active ingredients such as pyrethrins and sulfur. Spray Oils Petroleum and other oils have been used as pesticides for more than 100 years.Until recently spray oils had too many impurities to be used safely on foliage and were used only in the winter when trees were leafless and tree buds were dormant (hence the old term'dormant oil'). Today,sophisticated refining techniques produce oils that can be used any time of the yea;and on most kinds of plants. For many years,researchers have been testing various plant oils (such as neem oil) as insect repel- lents,feeding deterrents, and toxicants. Safety Do not swallow oil, inhale spray mists, or allow oil to remain on skin. Vkar a respirator, goggles, gloves, long pants, and a long-sleeved shirt when applying these materials. Effectiveness As with soaps, spray oils are effective on insects and mites that are coated by the material at the time of spraying, but they do not provide residual action against pests that move onto the plant later. Oils will kill aphids, ants, certain caterpillars, gall mites, lace bugs, leaf beetle larvae, mealy bugs,immature plant bugs, immature psyllids, sawfly larvae, scales (mature and immature),imma- ture whiteflies, spider mites, and others. Application Oils can kill the eggs as well as the larvae of both pests and beneficials,so it is important to check your plants as noted above under Application for insecticidal soap.Be sure to follow all label directions. Precautions Because certain oils carry a risk of scorching leaves, always test a portion of a leaf or a few leaves before spraying the entire plant.To reduce the risk,treat with oil when humidity is low(to allow the oil to evaporate quickly from leaves) and temperatures are moderate. Do not treat if temperatures are greater than 90° F or less than 32° E Water stress can also contribute to the sensitivity of various plants;therefore,caution dictates that you make sure plants have had sufficient water before treating them with oil. . 14 • Lass-Toxic Pest Management for AQtI27 6-23-98 Lessmioxic Pest Management for Ants ♦ i i f i f i i i i • i i i i • t i i • i i • i • • •' • i ♦ ♦- i Adilk- The ant most frequently found invading homes in the Bay area is the Argentine aft,Unepithe=hunute (not to be confused with the larger carpenter ant sometimes seen indoors). This ant can also,be a pest outdoors when it protects plant-feeding insects such as aphids,scales and mealybugs.from attack by their natural enemies (ladybugs,lacewings and others) Ants,guard these insects in order to harvest the nutri- tious honeydew they excrete. Although ants can be annoying pests, they provide an ecological cleansing and fertilization service of considerable importance.Ants aerate the sail and recycle dead animal and vegetable material.They kill and eat many pest insects such: as termites and immature cockroaches, fleas and flies. Because of these . 15i ...... ...__._.. _ ......... ......_.. ........._ ......... ....._._. .............................................................. .................. ... The Less Toxic Home and Garden VP Ant bats ctsztait► tie° icy ■y p �t �jy v" bait tO'��rAl a N 1` l M�fpR� x #N�k^ beneficial aspects,it is undesirable (and probably downright impossible) to eliminate ants from their out Side habitat.The best approach to ant management is to try to kep them out of the house. Detection Look for individual scouts wandering around the house,or long lines of ants marching to and from the food source.Argentine ants are dark brown and small,around 1/8"long.The queens are slightly larger. Less-TOX71C Controls INSIDE Your,HOME • Kill the Scouts. When you see just one or two ants wandering around without their buddies, they aren't just passing through.They are actively looking for food (and sometimes water).Kill these scouts when you see them so they can't call in the hordes when they find a tasty tidbit. • Ant Baits.Baits are better than insecticide sprays because they use a minimum of insecticide and confine it to a very small area.Ants pick up the bait and take it back to feed to their nest mates. (For more infornwtum, see Tips for using Art Baits). . 16- ........... Less-toxic Pest A anagement for Ai is 127 6-23-98 • Insecticidal Dusts, Diatomaceous earth (DE) has little toxicity to humans and pets, but kills ants by absorbing the waxy coating on their bodies, causing dehydration and death. DE is par- ticularly effective when blown into cracks and wall voids before they are sealed. If kept dry, DE will remain effective for years.Use a hand duster to apply DE and wear a dust mask and goggles. OUTSIDE YOUR HOME • Use Sticky Barriers.Ants cannot cross barriers made from sticky materials.Apply a 4-inch wide band of commercial sticky barrier around the trunk of a tree or bush to prevent ants from protect- ing rotecting aphids and other honeydew-producing insects. Apply the barrier as high on the trunk as possible to prevent people (especially children) from getting stuck Prune any branches that touch walls,fences,or the ground so ants do not have alternate routes into the plant. • Ant Baits. If you can find the spot where ants are entering the building (this is often difficult to do), place bait stations there,otherwise, use baits only inside. Prevention • Store Food in Ant-Proof Containers.The Argentine ant will feed on just about anything, so store food in glass jars with rubber seals,or in plastic containers with tightfitting snap-on lids. Although refrigerator storage is usually safe,ants sometimes do get into refrigerators and freezers. If this happens,a light, temporary coating of petroleum jelly on the rubber seal around the door should keep them.out.You may want to replace the seal if it is faulty. • Keep Things Clean and Dry. Keep kitchen surfaces clean and dry, and sweep or vacuum the floor frequently to remove all food scraps.During our long dry summers ants sometimes invade houses looking for water, so fix leaking faucets and pipes promptly.To keep ants out of your pet's water bowl, use a soapy barrier. • Caulk Cracks.Follow that ant trail back to the crack where they are entering the house and use silicone caulk to permanently close the hole.Use weather-stripping around doors and windows. It may not be practical to try to seal every hole in your house; but over time, by following ant trails and sealing those holes,you will significantly reduce the number of places ants can get in.If ants are already nesting in wall voids,puff some diatomaceous earth into the void before sealing it (see above). • Use Soapy Barriers. Set pet food dishes or other open containers of food in a shallow pie pan filled with soapy water This forms a moat that ants cannot cross. It is important to add soap or detergent to the water to break the surface tension so the ants sink and drown.To protect potted plants,put a plastic saucer under the pot and place both saucer and pot into the pie pan.fill with soapy water to just below the top of the saucer(you don`t want the plant to soak up soapy water). . IT• Less-Toxic Pest Management for Aphids LessmToxic Pest Management for Aphids One of the first insect pests to arrive in the garden in spring is the aphid.With mouth parts that resemble a straw,these insects pierce leaves,stems, and flowers to suck plant sap. Most plants can tolerate low to moderate numbers of aphids without noticeable damage,and many trees can support large populations of aphids without a problem,even though some leaves may turn yellow and drop. On some plants,howeveA large numbers of aphids can distort foliage and flowers, and stunt plant growth. Some species of aphids can also transmit plant diseases when they puncture plant tissue to feed. The Honeydew Problem Aphids excrete honeydew, a sweet substance that forms a sticky coating on leaves. Although hon- eydew itself is harmless, it is soon colonized by a black fungus called sooty mold that makes the leaves look dirty(but does not harm them).Honeydew from tree-feeding aphids can fail onto parked cars or sidewalks,where it creates a sticky mess. Honeydew is the favorite food of the Argentine ant, and to insure a continuing supply this ant protects aphids from their natural enemies. In fact, whenever you see ants on a plant, you can generally assume that aphids (or another honeydew producer such as scales or mealy bugs) are there as well.In such cases, aphid management must include ant management.(See also Less-Toxic Pest Management for Ants). Detection Aphids are small (usually 1/8"), soft-bodied insects. They have pear-shaped bodies with long legs and antennae and most species have two tube-like structures called cornicles protruding from their hind end. Adult aphids are generally wingless, but most species can produce winged forms at the end of the growing season or when populations are high. Tolerance Levels • Learn to tolerate the presence of low to moderate numbers of aphids, so long as they arerit causing noticeable plant damage. There is a reason for this: aphids have many natural enemies such as lady beetles, lacewings,and minute parasitoids (mini-wasps) that often keep aphid numbers below damag- ing levels. (These are discussed under Biological Controls). In order to assure themselves of a food supply, however, these beneficial insects rarely appear on the scene until after aphids have begun at- tacking plants.This lag-time may be as short as a day or two,or as long as several weeks if temperatures are cool. As the season progresses, aphid control by these natural enemies improves because more natural enemies are attracted to your garden and more are staying to breed. • Observe your plants in early spring and note when aphids first appear See how long it takes for the natural enemies to show up,and decide whether or not the amount of plant damage you observe during the lag-time is tolerable. X18• The Less Toxic Home and Garden C.127 6-23-98 • Aphids commonly found on shade trees will not be a prob- lem on your garden annuals so don't worry about them as a x source of infestation.However,those shade tree aphids can help attract the natural enemies;of aphids to your garden. • Confine any treatments to just these times and places where aphid numbers grow large enough to threaten significant aesthetic damage to plants. • Use treatment methods such as those listed below that limit harm to beneficial insects. In this way you can maximize natural biological control and minimize the time and money you spend on pest control. Less-Toxic Controls BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS. Among the most important natural enemies of aphids are the mini-wasps that lay their eggs inside the bodies of aphids.These wasps cannot sting people.A parasitized aphid(called a mummy) looks puffed-up, and its skin hardens and changes color,often to tan,light brown,or black. Predators are another important group of beneficial insects.These include lady beetle adults and larvae, lacewing larvae (these look like miniature alligators), syrphid fly larvae (these resemble tiny worms) and spiders. Attracting Beneficial Insects to Your Garden.Naturally-oc- curring beneficial insects will provide better aphid control than those you can buy. Since the adult forms of many beneficial insects feed on pollen and nectar,you can attract these natu- ral enemies to your garden by planting a wide variety of flow- ering plants.Spring blooms will help encourage the arrival of beneficial insects earlier in the season than they normally ap- pear,and flowers that bloom throughout the year will prolong their stay.Sweet alyssum(Lobularia Maritima) is easy to grow, attractive to beneficials, and blooms,over a long period. Buying Beneficials.If you are interested in purchasing natu- ral enemies to combat your aphid problem, we recommend ordering lacewing larvae(see Products and Resources at the end of this booklet).These insects are more likely to stay in your garden than commercially-available ladybugs. They are shipped in cardboard containers,and can be gently sprinkled over infested plants. When to Buy. Don't wait until aphid numbers are high be- fore purchasing natural enemies. If you have an aphid emer- gency on your hands,first use soap or oil sprays(see Soaps and Oils section) to reduce the population.,then release the natu- . 19. ............................... ...... ..................... ......................... ......- Less-Toxic Pest Management for Aphids ral enemies. This gives the beneficials time to find and kill aphids before excessive plant damage occurs.On the other hand,don't purchase beneficial insects before you have an aphid problem.You will be releasing them into your garden only to starve. WIPING OR PRUNING Small colonies of aphids can be wiped off leaves and buds with gloved hands. Severely infested portions of plants can be pinched off or pruned out.Drop these pieces into a bucket of soapy water, and after a few minutes drain them and let them decompose on the mulch or in a compost pile. WATER WASHES A strong jet of water from the hose can be used to wash some aphids species off plants. Some are killed outright, and others fall to the ground where they are picked off by spiders and other preda- tors. You may have to hose off the plants several times, 3 or 4 days apart, to keep aphid numbers down until the natural enemies appear.To avoid disease problems,hose the plants early in the day so the leaves dry before nightfall. INSECTICIDAL SOAP The addition of insecticidal soap to water washes will kill aphids on contact and can help dislodge hard-to-control species such as the woolly apple aphid, which is protected by a white, cottony covering. It's always a good idea to test these soap sprays on a few leaves and flowers that are in full sun before you spray the whole plant. Wait 24 hours and check leaves and flowers for signs of burning.These products do not leave toxic residues and spare beneficials such as ladybugs. SPRAY (HORTICULTURAL) OIL Highly refined superior oils provide excellent aphid control and leave no toxic residue for natu- ral enemies. Prevention • Use Slow•Release Fertilizers. Because some aphids reproduce more quickly on plants with high levels of nitrogen in their leaves and buds, avoid fertilizing plants with highly soluble forms of nitrogen fertil- izer.Instead,use compost,sewage sludge,or encapsulated materials such as OsmacoteO.These fertilizers slowly release moderate levels of nutrients, thus avoiding excessive supplies of aphid-attracting growth. • Avoid Excessive Pruning. Avoid excessive shearing or other forms of indiscriminate pruning which stimulate new growth that attracts aphids. • Row Covers. Row covers are made from finely spun plastic fabric. The fabric allows ai; light, and irrigation water to penetrate, and can be used to extend the growing season and to maintain even humidity for young plants. If you are growing vegetables or fruits in garden beds or containers,you can use row covers to exclude aphids. (Row covers will also keep out birds as well as moths and butterflies which lay eggs that hatch into hungry caterpillars.) Use bricks,boards,or earth to hold down the cover where it meets the ground,or tie it to the container. • Ant Control. Ants can be excluded from woody shrubs and trees by spraying or painting a 4" wide sticky barrier around the stem or trunk (To protect thin-barked plants from the adhesive,wrap duct tape around the trunk, then coat the tape with the adhesive.) Be certain that there are no gaps in the barrier and that the foliage of the banded plant is not touching anything that ants can use as an alter- nate route into the plant. (Prune plant parts away from ground and structures). *20. Less-Toxic Pest Management for FleaC.127 6-23-98 LesswTox c Pest Management for Fleas Adilk 0 * 000 00409 _77�17 The flea most commonly found in and around the home is the cat flea,Ctenocephalides fens. Despite its name, the cat flea finds dogs and humans quite tasty too. Flea bites cause irritation, but also serious allergies in some animals and humans. Detection Adult fleas spend almost all of their time on an animal's body Young adults that haven't had their first blood meal are small and black.After feeding they expand and look lighter brown. Flea larvae are white,worm-like,and hairy.They feed on dried blood excreted by the adults and can be found on the floor,in rugs,in cracks and crevices,and anywhere pets rest or sleep.You won't find larvae on your pet. In order to know when to begin and end your flea-control efforts, use a specially manufactured flea comb on your pet to count the number of captured fleas (see below). Less-Toxic Controls INSIDE YOUR HomE • Comb Your Pet.A metal flea comb,available at pet stores,is a very effective tool for flea control on cats and dogs.If you are pressed for time,focus the combing around the neck and at the base of the tail where most fleas congregate.While you are working on your pet,keep a wide container of soapy water nearby to drown any captured fleas. • Bathe Dogs.An occasional bath in soap and water can be useful in suppressing a flea population, particularly on dogs.Bathing works by drowning fleas.Using a flea comb while the pet is lathered up gives added control. It is not necessary to use a soap impregnated with an insecticide. • Vacuum Frequently. Throughout the year, vacuum carpets, upholstered furniture, and floors weekly. Fleas will suffocate in the dust of the vacuum bag Although vacuuming carpets is very effective in picking up adult and egg-stage fleas, it is less effective at removing larvae. When infestations are severe, you may want to use diatomaceous earth on your carpets or a borate treatment.Use vacuum attachments to clean cracks and crevices,or better still,seal these open- ings permanently with caulk.if your pet will allow it,gently vacuum the animal's coat to remove adult fleas. If flea populations are increasing, vacuum more frequently, daily, if necessary until flea numbers subside. • Insecticidal Dusts. Diatomaceous earth (DE) has little toxicity to humans and pets, but kills fleas by absorbing the waxy coating on their bodies,causing dehydration and death. DE can be used to treat carpets, upholstered furniture and pet bedding or you can blow it into cracks and •21 • .......................................... ....................................................................... ............................................ The Less Toxic Home and Garden crevices.As long as the dust stays dry,it will provide long-term control.Use a hand duster to apply a fine layer of DE and wear a dust mask and goggles.Avoid getting the dust in your pet's eyes. • Borate-Based Carpet Treatments.Borates,have a low toxicity to humans and pets but are very effective against fleas. Fleanix carpet treatment can control fleas in carpeting for up to a year Fleanix powder is mixed with the water in a rug shampooing machine with or without detergent. When the rug is shampooed,the borate binds to the fibers and cannot be vacuumed up. • Flea Traps. These small traps are composed of a tiny electric light and a sheet of sticky paper. Fleas are attracted to the warmth and light and get stuck to the paper Research has shown that traps with a flickering green light are the most effective.Flea traps can be especially useful if you don't own a pet but still have fleas (but in this case also check for wild animals or rodents nesting in or around your home).Flea traps can also be used to detect a flea population where people are being bitten but no insect has been found. • Insect Growth Regulators (IGRs).These insect hormones prevent flea eggs from hatching and inhibit larvae from reaching the adult stage. The IGR methoprene can be applied to areas of potential flea development, such as carpets and pet bedding IGRs will not kill fleas that have already reached adulthood before the material is applied.Methoprene should be used in combi- nation with other measures listed in this section. Some products combine methoprene with permethrin to control both pre-adult and adult fleas. OUTSIDE YOUR HOME • Treat Outside Only Where You Have Found High Flea Populations. Only in heavily infested areas will you find adult fleas outside.To find these areas, put on a pair of white socks and walk around the yard. It will be easy to see fleas jump onto the light-colored socks. • Do Not Try to Combat Fleas by Spraying around the Perimeter of Your House or Spraying Your Entire Yard.Spot-treat only those areas where you find large accumulations of fleas.If your pets spend most or all of their time outside, you may find fleas in areas where the animals rest, sleep,or regularly travel.Otherwise,your efforts will be more effective if they are directed at the pets themselves and the interior of your home. • Check for Wild Animals like Raccoons and opossums.These animals can also harbor cat fleas and are often found nesting under houses or porches. Dead animals can be the source of a flea infestation as well. If you find a nest under the house,the area can be treated with diatoma- ceous earth. • Insecticidal Soap. Insecticidal soaps are virtually non-toxic to mammals. Products such as M- pede- can be used outdoors for fleas.Use only on the ground as aspot treatment when flea popu- lations are truly high.Treat only those areas where you have determined that fleas are numerous; do not spray your whole yard. • Beneficial Nematodes.These microscopic,worm-like organisms live in the soil and kill insects by entering their bodies and releasing bacteria that are harmful to the insects.Once nematodes are applied to the soil, they cannot move far--only an inch or two. Moisture is critical for the effective use of nematodes,so be sure to water the area before and after application.For a source of beneficial nematodes see the Products and Resources chapter. -22 . ............ ............. ....................... _. _. .. _ ......... ............_... _ ...... _ ..................... .. ..............._.._...._. ..._. .......... ................................................... ... .._.... Less-Toxic Pest Management for FIQt4,27 6-23-98 FOR YOUR ANIMAL • Ultrasonic Collars and Machines Are Not Effective.There is no scientific evidence that these products impact fleas and they are not recommended. The products below should be used on your animal only during flea season. If these products are over-used,fleas will eventually become resistant to them. • Fipronil(Frontline) and Imidacloprid (Advantage).Products with these active ingredients are applied to the skin of the animal in a small amount at one spot, usually at the base of the neck or between the shoulder blades.Over the next 24 hours the insecticide spreads over the entire body of the pet and is effective for at least a month. Both these active ingredients have a low acute toxicity for mammals but can be irritating to eyes and should not be ingested. Use gloves when applying them. • Lufenuron(Program).Products with this active ingredient are given orally to the animal.Lufenuron circulates in the bloodstream for about a month.Fleas that ingest this chemical produce only a few viable eggs and the larvae from those eggs are unable to mature.Because lufenuron accumulates in fat and crosses the placental barrier,do not treat pregnant, nursing,or'very young animals. Prevention • Restrict Pet Access.By restricting pets to a regular sleeping space,you can concentrate the flea population and focus cleaning efforts in fewer areas. If possible, keep pets out of bedrooms,etc., where fleas will be particularly annoying • Use Washable Pet Bedding.In pet sleeping areas,use bedding or a cloth that can be gathered up easily by the four comers and laundered frequently. Soapy water destroys all flea stages. • For Highly Allergic People. Fleas jump from the floor onto your feet and ankles and walk up until they reach bare skin.You can protect yourself by wearing a long-sleeved shirt and long pants tucked into socks.If the weather is hot,just a pair of long white socks will offer some protection. Pick off fleas you find on the socks and drop them into soapy water When using an insect repel- lent,apply it to your shoes and clothing rather than your skin. • Keep Wild Animals and Rodents Away from the House. Patch holes or cover them with screen(1/4"hardware cloth) to prevent animals from getting in. f j� 1 •23 _ _ __ ...... ........11 11........ ___ __ ._ _ ........._. 1111. ......... .._...... ......... ......... ......... ......... _1111.._. _........ ...._._.. .. 1.111.. ........ ............. _...._ ...... ........ Spiders, the Helpful Hunters f P- p7 S iders, the Helpful Hunters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All spiders are beneficial creatures.They are predatory and feed on large quantities of insects; therefore, they should be tolerated as much as possible in the home and garden. Spiders are not insects; they are classified as arachnids and have eight legs (insects have six legs). Few Spiders are Dangerous There are over 3,000 species of spiders in the U.S. and only a small number of these are dangerous to people. In the Bay Area, the only spider to cause concern is the black widow (see the bcx for more information). Cases of Mistaken Identity Often,people think they have been bitten by a spider when the culprit is actually a flea, tick,mite, or even certain disease conditions.Only a very few spiders are equipped with mouth parts that can pierce human skin.If the bites you are discovering are small,mild,and go away within a day or two, there is nothing to be concerned about.Of course,if a bite affects a large area,is very painful,and/ or is followed by dizziness,fever,nausea,or any other severe symptoms,seek medical advice imme- diately. It is very important to try to capture the offending spider drop it into a small jar of rubbing alcohol, and take it to your physician for identification. What Can 1 Do? Harmless or not, spiders upset many people who find them or their webs in or around the house. Unfortunately, many people associate spider webs with poor housekeeping under the mistaken as- sumption that in a clean house no insects or spiders should exist.On the contrary,spiders can be an asset to the conscientious homeowner since they capture and consume many pest insects before the human residents ever see the insects. Don't Spray around the House or Garden for Spiders.Use a vacuum inside the house and leave the spiders in the garden to do their pest control job. Get Rid of Webs.If you're willing to try sharing your house with a few spiders,you can periodically vacuum up the webs that might be an embarrassment to you as a housekeeper. Leaving the spiders will allow them to continue to do their work. Vacuum.If you cannot endure spiders or their webs in your home, the easiest and safest way to get rid of them is to vacuum up both spiders and webs. The dust inside the vacuum bag will quickly suffocate any spiders you catch. Reduce their Food Supply.What are those spiders eating? Fruitflies? Try storing ripening fruit in paper bags that are folded over twice and sealed with a large clip. Are they feasting on the insects attracted to a porch light?Try a yellow bulb.Are houseflies the problem?Install screens on windows and doors. .24. k£�4xa. .`r";.' .Y ""'" Y Ism g '44Y t lx ¢} so MQ91SQ'Ifs Covina Im—WAMM!"S WA r. h a Won a Mo ;g ass a F 33F VA %^ s �.- ,,�� �,, x �, YsMMIRTM' >r " r� ,., a �, s ,* ^;aa r?a F «sT ` y r t fi n a� v � �,%s��✓t� EON Ss acs £ x r � aA" van r ENDg zWpi grx�a s st a a E x e s sno_AM s r F MENS�.b KkEon$� u��2 �r sta.}�a -r•a� su etk � $qa"xA ✓m 5-1 u .�l PRO, AWN =3 £ A, x MAWWWAVY AN M ££s.�'rr r 6s # e q # t s e $ z Cm 4s xA1£�rt� kr��E e���,�zb sank wq xk�bs ��x }�� � s }} e look OTATAT, ax r'x a on a b ass e t ��: £ x#6£ k SAM x si a Sa IA �z- � sF :4 W-- k arm SIT fM ,Mfr.f.6 F. p z '� t t 3�Fti .Hu C g ty tfi" ¢ on c{e F Nn k S,:[--,. 4' k fo-i, t`A_;6• �3 6.:� .ES At. d9.��C -+� rk" � S5 Y Less-Toxic Pest Management for White Grubs is Pest Management Less Tom. for White Grubs AdMlk_ White grubs are the larval (immature) stage of several species of beetle.The genus of beetles most com- mon in the Bay Area is Cyclocephala, the masked chafer. Masked chafer adults do not eat anything, but their grubs can cause patches of lawn to die when they feed on grass roots. Life Cycle Adults mate and lay eggs in turf from May to July.After 2 to 3 weeks the eggs hatch and the grubs feed on organic matter;including plant roots,through summer and fall.The grubs then move deeper in the soil and remain inactive until spring when they pupate, or turn into adult beetles. Adults emerge from the ground in late spring through early summer. Detection The adult beetle is about 1/2 inch long and golden brown with a dark brown head.Adults are active only at night,mainly in June and July.The C-shaped grubs can be up to an inch long and are white with a brown head and three pairs of conspicuous legs. Damage from grubs begins to show in mid August and can be mistaken for wilted grass under drought stress. Later, irregular patches die and can be lifted up or rolled back like a carpet. Grub feeding can make the ground feel spongy.Birds,moles,raccoons,and skunks can add to the damage when they dig in the turf to find grubs on which to feed. But just finding wilted patches of grass or animals digging in the lawn does not mean that white grubs are infesting your turf! You need to find grubs to verify their presence. Unfortunately, there is no easy way.to find white grubs while they are small enough for treatments to be effective in preventing damage. if you have had white grub problems before or suspect you have them now, begin looking in mid May by digging down 2 inches and examining the roots in several spots in a square foot area. This must be done in a number of places around the lawn because white grubs are not evenly distributed. Less-Topic Controls • Healthy lawns can recover more easily from white grub damage, so take care-of your lawn (see Prevention section). • Wear spiked sandals (Spikes of Death)when you mow the lawn in the summer to kill grubs that are feeding near the soil surface. • Treat with beneficial nematodes (the species Heterorhabditis bacreriophora). Use 20 million per 1000 square feet and irrigate immediately before and after treatment.The soil temperature must be a minimum of 60 F.Treatments work best when grubs are small and temperatures are high. •26. The Less Toxic Home and Garden 0.127 b-23-98 • Have a professional treat with an.insecticide containing imidicloprid (Merit). Merit works best when grubs are small.This material has a low acute toxicity for mammals. • If white grubs are the problem and you are finding dead patches of tur£the grubs have done their damage and are ready to stop eating,Treating at this time will have no effect. Remove the dead grass, cultivate, and reseed the area. • The use of insecticides containing diazinon or chlorpyrifos is often ineffective because these chemicals bind with organic matter in the thatch and do not easily move down into the soil where the grubs are living. Prevention • Warm-season grasses (those that grow best between 80" and 90` F and go dormant below 50' F, such as Bermudagrass) are more tolerant of white grub infestations.' • Turf-type fescues seem to be more tolerant of white grubs. • Poor drainage—a common problem in lawns---contributes to white grub problems. Soil may have become compacted because of foot traffic or improper preparation before the lawn was planted.Aeration can improve drainage.Use a hollow-tined,foot-operated aerator that removes plugs of soil,or rent a mechanical aerator. • Keep thatch from accumulating in your lawn by mowing it frequently;enough that not more than about 113 of the leaf blade is removed at any one time. It isn't necessary to collect and remove clippings.Leave them to decompose and fertilize the lawn.Thatch can also be reduced by aeration. • Keep your lawn healthy and growing vigorously. (See Less-Toxic Lawn Gare.) i .27. ............ ........ ...........-...... ...... '---.........-....-............. Products and Resources Referred to in this Booklet Products and Resources Referred to in this Booklet Ank- No endorsement of specific brand name products is intended,nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Follow all label directions on any suggested product. Less-Toxic Lawn Care SOILS LABORATORIES A&L Western Agricultural Labs, 1311 Woodland Ave., #1, Modesto, CA 95351 209-529-4080 Soil &Plant Lab,352 Mathew St.,Santa Clara,CA 95050 408-727-0330 Perry Labs,471 Airport Blvd.,Watsonville, CA 95706 408-722-7606 SOIL PROBE Soil Sampler* NATURAL FERTILIZERS Bloodmeal—Nitrogen (N) Cottonseed meal—Nitrogen (N) Bone meal,—Phosphorus (P) Muriate of potash--Potash (K) Fish emulsion—Nitrogen and trace elements Seaweed extract—Trace elements SLOW-RELEASE FERTILIZER OsmacoteO CORN GLLITEN MEAL Wow"from Gardens Alive!, 5100 Schenley Place, Lawrenceburg IN 47025 (812) 537,8650 Physical and Cultural Controls STICKY BARRIER Tanglefooe and Tree Sticky Barrier" •28 The Less Toxic Home and Garden 0.127 6-23-98 Row COVER TufbelO ENCAPSULATED FERTILIZER Csmacote® Buying and Using Beneficial insects GARDEN SUPPLY CATALOGS Gardens Alive!,5100 Schenley Place, Lawrenceburg IN, 47025 (812) 537-8650 Harmony Farm Supply, 3244 Hwy. 116,No. B,Sebastopol,CA 95472 (707) 823-9125 INSECTARIES Rincon Vitova, P.O. Box 1555,Ventura, CA 93002 (805) 643-5407 For a list of insectaries, contact the Association of Natural BioControl Producers at (714) 544-8295 or at http://ipm_www.ncsu.edu/biocontrol/anbp/homepage.html PUBLICATIONS Suppliers of Beneficial Organisms in North America Published by the California Department of Pesticide Regulation, Environmental Monitoring and Pest Management. Branch, 1020 N Street,Room 161,Sacramento, CA 95814, (916) 324-4140 Directory of Least-Toxic Pest Control Products (updated yearly) Available from BIRC(510)524-2567 for$12.83 BOOKS Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs by Steve H. Dreistadt Turfgrass Pests by A.D.Ali and Clyde L. Elmore Both the above are available from DANK,Univ.of CA,6741. San Pablo Ave.,Oakland,CA 94608; (514) 642-2431 Good Bugs for Your Garden.by Allison Mia Starche4 published 1995 by Algonquin Books of Chapel Hill, NC 27515. Soaps and Gills for Pest Control INSECTICIDAL SOAPS Safer's Insecticidal Soap, Ready-to-Use's,M-Peden 4 INSECTICIDAL SOAP WITH PYRETHRIN Safer'Yard and Garden Insect Killer* .2g. Products and Resources Referred to in this Booklet ' •'' SPRAY (HORTICULTURAL) OILS SunSpray UltrafineO, Saf-T Cide®, VolckO Less Toxic Pest Management for Ants DESICCATING DUST D-E Plus Crawling Insect Killer HAND-DUSTER Pest Pistolo STICKY BARRIER Tanglefoot" and Tree Sticky Barrier' BAITS CONTAINING BORIC ACID OR BORAX Terro`°Ant Bait, Drax Ant Kill'Gel and Drax Ant Kil pP BAITS CONTAINING HYDRAMETHYLNON CombatO Ant Control System BAITS CONTAINING ARSENIC Grants Kills Ants' BAITS CONTAINING SULFURAMID Raid Ant Bait Plus" Less-Toxic Pest Management for Aphids INSECTICIDAL SOAPS Safer's Insecticidal Soap,Ready-to-Use",M-Pedes' INSECTICIDAL SOAP Wf PYRETHRIN Safer Yard and Garden Insect Killer" SPRAY (HORTICULTURAL) COILS SunSpray Ultrafine*, Saf-T Cider',Volck" ENCAPSULATED FERTILIZERS Osmacote' ROW COVERS Tufbell® STICKY BARRIERS Tanglefooe or Tree Sticky Barrier's SOURCES FOR LACEWINGS Buena BioSystems, P.O.Box 4008,Ventura,CA 93007, (805) 525-2525 Rincon Vitova Insectaries,PO Box 1555,Ventura,CA 93002, (805) 643.6267 •30• ............................._......_...._.. .. ... .__ ....... .... ......... ............... .__....._. ........... _............ .......... .......... ......... ......... .... ..... ......... choose less toxic products for your hone and garden Look for this symbol before you buy. r� a V Central Contra Costa Sanitary District 5019 Imhoff Place, Martinez, CA 94553 www,centralsan.orn, iy 1 ................................ ............. ..... ......... ......... ......... ......... ......... .........._._.... _ ...................... _ ..........____.. ........_..__................._._. .................._..._....._.._.... _ _ ........... _ _.. ...... .............. _......_. ._......... ...._.... ......... The Less Toxic Home and Garden. C.127 6-23-98 Less Toxic Pest Management for Fleas INSECTICIDAL DUSTS D-E plus®Crawling Insect Killer HAND DUSTER Pest Pistol' BORATE-BASED CARPET TREATMENTS Fleanix® INSECT GROWTH REGULATORS (IGRS) Precor® IGRS WITH PERMETHRIN Precor 2000 INSECTICIDAL SOAP M-pedes' FLEA TRAP Ultralighe ON YOUR ANIMAL (AVAILABLE FROM VETS) FrontlineO (Fipronil) Advantage' (Imidacloprid) INGESTED BY YOUR ANIMAL (AVAILABLE FROM VETS) ProgramO (Lufenuron) BENEFICIAL NEMATODES Steinernema carpocapse, from Rincon-Vitova Insectaries, PO Box 1555,Ventura, CA 93002 (805) 643. 6267 Less-Toxic Pest Management for White Grubs SPIKED SANDALS Spikes of Death BENEFICIAL NEMATODES Heterorhabditis bacteriophora,from Rincon Vitova Insectaries, PO Box 1555,Ventura,CA 93002 (805) 643-6267 •31 • F _. _.._..... ......... .. .._.._. __ _ .. ....... ......... _..................... ...... ......... _ _. _ .......... ..........._....... .. ............................ 1 " 1 The Board of Supervisors Contra Clark� d County Administration BudCounty County A&nstrator 651 Pine Street,Room 106 (510)335-19W Martinez,Catitomia 94553-1293 County .ant Ropers,i at Diftict s Gay%S.uakaina,2nd Dishict Donna Gmter.3rd DisbW Mark DeSauiniar,4th Diabid Joe Danclaniaa,5th Distft V IYED June 23, 1998 MURK s A tr Or ESUPFRVNWRS r � California State Association of Counties CSAC Challenge Awards Attention: Lisa Brys 1100 K Street, Suite 201 Sacramento, CA 95814 Dear Ms. Brys: on June 23, 1998, the Contra Costa County Board of Supervisors endorsed and authorized the submission of the following applications for CSAC Challenge Awards: • Antioch Receiving Center- Social Service Department +� Loss Toxic Home and Garden - Cooperative Extension (U.C. Berkeley) Enclosed are four copies of the Executive Summary and other materials for each application, copies of the applications themselves, a copy of the BoardOrder authorizing the submission of this letter and the applications, and a warrant for $50.00 to cover the application fees. Very truly yours, A ROGERS, CHAIR Enclosures cc: County Administrator Social Service Director Director, Cooperative Extension